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Best of Bol pick · Things to visit · in the old town

House in a House (Paloc)

A 19th-century house in Bol whose walls were built around a poor farmer's house when he refused to sell. The brothers building it drowned on the way back from Venice, the house was never finished, and the little house still stands inside it.

The House in a House in Bol from above: a small old house standing inside the roofless walls of an unfinished palace
Photo: Best of Bol

Why it is a pick

  • One of the oddest buildings in Dalmatia
  • A protected cultural monument
  • A five-minute stop with a good story
  • Free to see from outside

The story

In the 19th century the land belonged to the Vuković family: six brothers, three of them priests and three sea captains who traded around the Mediterranean in their own sailing ship. When the captains married Spanish wives, the brothers decided to build a big house there. A poor farmer called Marko already lived on the plot, in a small house of his own, and he would not sell, however much they offered. The local chief tried to settle it; Marko quarrelled with him, threatened his life, and fled to the Republic of Dubrovnik for fear of what would follow.

While he was away, the Vukovićs simply built around his house, planning to pull it down later. Marko came back and put explosives under the walls, but they did not go off, and he fled again. The new house had reached three storeys when the brothers sailed to Venice for timber and other materials. On the way home their ship went down in a storm with everyone on board. None of the brothers had children, so the family died out and the work stopped. A few years later Marko came home to his little house inside the walls. After he died, the building was left empty.

Much of the story is local legend, but the house inside the house is real, and it is a protected cultural monument.

To do To confirm: House in a House: street or square, for the address and the map link.

To do To confirm: House in a House: whether it is lit at night and whether the inside can be visited.

Also our pick for things to visit

Things to visit · on Glavica, at the east end of town

Dominican Monastery and Museum

The Dominican monastery on the Glavica headland at the east end of Bol, founded in the 15th century on the site of a late Roman castle. Its church holds an altarpiece of Our Lady with saints from Tintoretto's workshop, and its museum, renovated in 2021, shows archaeological finds, rare ancient coins, Glagolitic books and Venetian paintings.

Things to visit · on the harbour

Branislav Dešković Art Gallery

Bol's art gallery, in a Renaissance-Baroque palace from 1694 on the harbour. It holds more than 400 works, the finest collection of 20th-century Croatian painting and sculpture on any Adriatic island, from Meštrović and Rendić to Job, Vidović and Murtić.

Things to visit · Bol's parish church

Church of Our Lady of Mount Carmel

Bol's Baroque parish church, Gospa od Karmela, built between 1668 and 1788 a few steps from the harbour. Look for the carved rose window and the stone angel holding Veronica's veil over the door, then step inside for the ornate Baroque altars and the marble pulpit.

Things to visit · on the waterfront

Small Format Gallery

About 350 works by 260 Croatian painters and sculptors, from Bukovac and Vidović to Murtić and Ana Opalić, on the first floor of the old Croatian Reading Room of 1897 on the waterfront in Bol.

Things to visit · the Templar chapel, by the monastery

Church of St John and Theodore

The oldest church in Bol, known locally as the Templar chapel: a tiny stone church about a thousand years old, beside the Dominican monastery on the Glavica headland. It was built over a late Roman building, and traces of early frescoes and an old water cistern lie at its foot.

Things to visit · west of Murvica, by sea or on foot

Blaca Hermitage

A 16th-century monastery built into a cliff in a remote valley west of Murvica by Glagolitic priests fleeing the Ottomans. It is now a museum: the priests' rooms and kitchen, their library, clocks and weapons, and the instruments of its last priests, who were astronomers, left much as they were in 1963.

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